Friday, 10 July 2015

Hei Hei, Suomi (Part Two)

Saunas are a big deal in Suomi.  Most houses have one, even in the city.  A relative we visited has one in his one-bed flat.  (There are flats in British cities that don’t have room for a toilet.  In Helsinki, they’ve got room for a sauna.)
It’s ladies first in the sauna – as is (presumably) traditional.  I will hear later that the girls have gone au naturel.  The Lads will not.
I’ve never been in a sauna (I know, I know, sheltered life, or whatever).  It’s pretty hot. 
There’s a fire in the corner, with a bucket of stones and a bucket of water on top.  And when you pour water on the stones it gets crazy hot for a couple of minutes, and then settles down.
At first it’s quite difficult, especially breathing (which I do all the time) because that somehow makes the face even hotter.  But after a few minutes, it becomes more familiar and comfortable.  And then it’s quite nice. 

The thing to do is apparently to jump into icy water, straight out of the sauna…and then get back in the sauna.  I don’t think I could do that without my Mum (or any British Mum) shouting “You’ll catch your death!” at me.  It seems like a bracing, enjoyable way to get a cold.  I don’t have the option, because it’s summer and we’re not near enough to a lake.  So we settle for a hot tub, which has been heating all day and is lovely.  The hot tub is not traditional, but having a really nice time is.
On balance, I think the hot tub was a good choice.  (I’ve never been in one of those before either.  Yes, again, I have apparently led a sheltered life.)

I am treated to some more Finnish lessons, and learn how to say “Golden Crumble” in Suomalainen, which is not a dessert, but a term of endearment.  I rather like it.  When I say it, people say “Awwwww”.

I don’t know if this is a Juhannus tradition, but we listen to a very particular kind of Finnish music:  American/British pop hits of the 60s and 70s, sung in (allegedly) badly-translated Finnish.  Our Suomalainen friends chuckle at these, which apparently make the bad poetry of pop songs even more clumsy in translation.  The idea itself also raises a self-conscious smile from Finns.  (We hear The Beatles, The Stones, Elvis, Hotel California, California Dreamin’ and Unchained Melody subjected to this.)  Do they do this in other countries/languages? 
I’ve heard it’s big in South Korea…
I’m also treated to some Finnish Rap.  The Finnish word for Rap is Rappi, which makes me happy – you have to roll the ‘r’, which only sweetens it further. 
Hip Hop is Hip Hoppi. 
Love this country.

Later, there’s a lively (and confusing) debate about whether Finland really is part of Scandinavia.  K– states, apparently in all seriousness, that it is not “geographically” part of the club, even though everyone has just agreed to the obvious point that it most definitely is, at very least, even if in no other way, geographically part of Scandinavia.  To which K– repeats “No, but geographically…”
I’m not sure what’s going on with this, or exactly the point she’s trying to make.  So we just let it slide.

Sitting out through the evening gives me a better appreciation of the light, and because we’ve been drinking most of the day, it feels like a festival.  A small, friendly one, rather than the muntfest some of them turn in to.  It’s all very relaxed here, we’re living the Juhannus dream.

Day Four is Juhannus!  Officially mid-summer’s day.  So, the traditional saunas, barbecue, all-day drinking – and the non-traditional hot tub.  I play guitar on the porch in the morning, and we sit and watch the rain. 
Thug life, yo.

We head to the supermarket for more supplies, while others take a long walk through the woods. 
Finnish Supermarkets are exactly the same as British ones.  Supermarkets, whether part of the same chain or not, have very good “harmonisation”: they are equally horrible places to be the world over.
But the trip is all worthwhile for the food mountain we construct later.  It includes smoked salmon, which I usually don’t like, but holidays are all about new experiences, aren’t they?  This particular lot has been hot-smoked along with the barbecue.   It’s really good.

Thatcher’s cider seems popular with Finns, and is pronounced Tatch-erss.  One of the lads is drinking a Finnish beer that’s named after a very popular former President (or maybe Prime Minister), and the cans feature a photo with his distinctive big glasses and pork pie hat.  Some of our Finnish friends ask, laughingly, if anyone would put Margaret Thatcher on a cider can.  I reply, laughingly, maybe if it were a picture of her head on a spike…

As the international crew swap stories, cultural differences, human similarities and enough food and drink to sink a battleship, I play an impromptu gig at about 1 am, with half my audience still in the hot tub.  (I’ve been asked, I’m not just rockin up and singing at people (you know, like I usually would)).  I’m always more nervy playing to a small group of friends than to a room full of paying strangers, for some reason.  But everyone is nice and I enjoy it and hopefully they do as well.  At one point, towards the end of a song, I feel something on my face.  E- pulls it off my cheek.  It’s only a bloody mozzy, isn’t it?  The bastard’s bit me while I’m trying to entertain.  (No manners, but what a critic.)

The second round of barbecue is under way afterwards, with sausages.  In my usual holiday fashion, I am doubling my bodyweight in a most enjoyable way.  It feels good in the moment, but if you do it for more than a week at a time…

On Day Five we have a big clear-up of the house, which belongs to our friend’s parents; it reminds me of being sixteen, staying up all night drinking at someone’s parents’ house while they’re on holiday.  (Although with less drug abuse, sexual intrigue and broken furniture.  I am not sixteen anymore.  Thankfully.)

On my first two days in Espoo I got a couple of mosquito bites, which I didn’t really notice at first.  By the Sunday I’ve got several and they are itchy.  R- points out that it could be worse, at least these ones aren’t Malarial.  Which shuts me about mosquitos for a while.

We play a strange bi-lingual version of Charades, with cards that give teams the word to act out in Finnish, but all guesses in English.  Hilarity ensues.  With lots of “What’s the English word for….?”
There’s also a game a bit like Skittles, with numbered wooden blocks.  Players have to knock the blocks over with another block.  I like games based on throwing things at other things.  (That sounds sarcastic, but it isn’t.)

We say our goodbyes to the crew and head back to the city in the sunshine for a wandering end to Juhannus.  Finding a good hill, we discuss the politics of Finland, Zimbabwe and the UK over a couple of tins of Lapin Kulta, another Finnish beer (the name means Lappish (as in Lapland) Gold, or something like that). 

I realise both my legs are covered in the bastard mosquito bites.  Others have suffered far worse, with more bites and worse reactions, but it doesn’t stop me moaning, obviously.
It is a bit annoying.  (The bites, not my moaning about it.  Which is probably worse, but you’d have to ask someone else about that…)

We’re staying at L-‘s flat, so we end the evening at her local bar.  It’s the kind of cool wee place European cities seem to have in abundance – it’s a neighbourhood bar that is cool (but not so much as to be annoying) and still cheap – a pint here costs FOUR EURO, by a long way the cheapest drink I’ve had this week.  Wishing we could stay up chatting all night with L- and R-, (they’re both working tomorrow) we compensate by drinking an evening’s worth of gloriously cheap beer in the couple of hours we have with them.  To be alive is a joy; to be drunk and in good company is very heaven.

So, on Day Six, I wake up to my first hangover of the week.  Pretty good going considering I’ve been drinking the whole time…but it’s no fun, I can tell you.  It’s mercifully brief, and passes in time for The Last Day Of The Holiday.
As a wee treat, we’re spending our last night in a hotel.  I’m not used to hotels, but it’s a deal and the place looks interesting.  After checking in, we have a wander around town and get a recommendation for dinner: a Lappish restaurant near the hotel. 
Lapland is in the far north of the country, and is well in the Arctic Circle.  The culture reflects this: people eat some stuff we – that’s us, from more hospitable climes – might find unusual…needs must innit.  So we order a set menu to check out the array of Lapland delicacies, which turn out to include: lake fish, reindeer (two different kinds), salmon, potatoes, cheese, dill (another Finnish favourite), bread.  And bear.  Yes, that’s right: bear.
I don’t see a moral difference between eating different non-endangered animals:  if it’s OK to eat a pig or a sheep, why is not OK to eat a horse or a bear?  The difference isn’t moral, it’s cultural.  But I probably wouldn’t order bear.  It’s on the platter, though, so I eat it.  It tastes alright.  The reindeer is nice.  (Neither tastes a bit like chicken.)
We head back to the Torni for a last long look at Helsinki from above, as the sun goes down (it doesn’t really go down, obviously.  It just dips a bit.  In fact, the sun doesn’t go down at all, it just looks like it does as a result of the earth turning – as fans of The Flaming Lips will be well aware.)
It’s a beautiful place to be.
Fuckin mozzy bites, mind….

On Day Seven, the final day, we wake up late and rush downstairs just in time for the continental breakfast for which we intended to be up in plenty of time.  I probably won’t eat bread and cheese for breakfast for a while after this.  We check out and, with Euros burning a hole in our pockets, head to the harbour to get seafood and tourist tat for the family.  (We’ve already loaded up on chocolate, with several bars of Fazer, the Finnish Cadbury’s.)

We make one last family visit, and it’s Goodbye, Finland.  As the plane climbs into the sky, we see Rajamaki Church, where E-‘s parents got married, where she was christened, where her Mummu was buried.  This place is home to many wonderful people.
And we have met many wonderful people and had many new experiences.  We’ve eaten, drank, sang, said, watched and done some odd and lovely stuff. 
What a brilliant place.

Näkemiin…

Hei Hei, Suomi

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